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Thread: D16Z6 Valve Adjustment

  1. #1
    R/C Racer Cleatus's Avatar
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    Default D16Z6 Valve Adjustment

    This is for a d16z6. B series are a littler harder but nothing you cant figure out after reading this

    Specs:
    Exhaust: .009-.011"
    Intake: .007-.009"

    These specs are with the engine completely cool. This takes several hours after acheving standard operating temp. It is best to let the car sit overnight and do this.

    Tools Needed:
    1/2" Wratchet
    6" 1/2" Drive extension
    Pliers
    10mm Socket 3/8" Drive
    17mm Socket 1/2" Drive
    Torque Wrench
    Feeler Gauges .008" and .010"
    10mm end wrench

    Pic of tools I used.


    First thing I did was jack up the front of my car on the driver side tow hook and turn the wheels all the way to the left

    Next the hood is poped. You should see something like this


    I got the specs from the tag on the underside of the hood. Here is a pic of what it looks like.


    Remove all plug wires. If they are not numbered...keep track of them. Mine were numbered so its not really too hard to keep track of them


    Next is to remove 5 10mm bolts. They are circled in red in the pic


    After removing the 5 bolts, only other thing holding the valve cover on is the breather tube that connects the crankcase to the intake. Use pliers to remove this by squeezing the tabs on the clamp together making it larger than normal. Side it back on the hose and remove the hose.


    After removing the vent, the valve cover comes right off. You should see this after removing valve cover


    Here comes the hardest part. Honda suggests that every cylinder have the valves checked with it at TDC (Top Dead Center) of the compression stroke. With all of the engines that I have built I set all valves for the cylinder at TDC and then do the intake valves for the next cylinder and then the exhaust. Now you must either set #6 to TDC or #1 to TDC. The easiest way I've found to find this is to watch for valve overlap of the sister cylinder. When the sister cylinder is in valve overlap (the intake valves start to open while the exhaust valves are still closing) the sister cylinder is just getting ready to fire. I understand that at valve overlap that the cylinder is not at true TDC, but it is very close. To do this use your 17mm socket and the 6" extension to turn the crank pulley counterclockwise from the front of the engine. Make sure your car is in neutral...it will make turning it much easier.


    After finding TDC use your feeler gauge to inspect the tolerances. Measure this between the rocker arm and the tip of the valve assembly. Check the top of this page for the tolerances



    For those of you that havent been around feeler gauges this is what they look like. I use angled ones to make the job a little easier but any will do. I just simply get the feeler gauges that corespond with the specs it calls for. They are engraved with mm and inch settings


    If the tolerance is out of spec, you simply need to break loose the 10mm nut on the rocker assembly and use a flat blade screwdriver to either loosen or tighten the space between the two items. Some people prefer to move the feeler gauge in and out and feel for a slight drag. I personally just leave the feeler in position, tighten it down, and if it snaps out I have it tight enough. After doing it by hand, I check all nuts that I loosened with a torque wench to 14ft/lbs. I then check all adjustments again and move on


    When #1 cylinder is on TDC, this would be the closest to the driver side, I set all 4 valves for that cylinder, the intake valves on #2, and the exhaust valves on #3. After this you rotate the engine 360* and put #4 cylinder on TDC with #1 cylinder on overlap. Once again overlap is when exhaust valves are closing with intake still opening. You can make sure of this by grabbing the rocker arm with your fingers and try and move it up and down. It should have no play on either intake or exhaust. With #6 on TDC I set all 4 valves for #4 cylinder, intake valves on #3 cylinder and exhaust valves on #2. Check all with a torque wrench and after wards check to make sure clearance hasn't changed

    After done, replace the valve cover and tighten all 5 bolts to 7ft/lbs and re-connect the breather to the valve cover. Put all spark plug wires back in proper place. Lower car to ground and check for anything that looks out of place. That's it.....took me probably 30 minutes taking pictures and all, its really not that bad. Hopefully I took some good pics for you guys and again I apologize for taking so long. If there is anything else you would like see done let me know and I'll do my best to do it for you

    -Kris
    Copyright 2007 IpbRacing
    1992 Honda Civic CX
    2008 LVMS Battle of the Imports Sportsman ET Champ

  2. #2
    Super Moderator SynTeg's Avatar
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    Default

    Nice write-up man...props to you.

  3. #3
    Sportsman Racer jdm_ferio's Avatar
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    14.9@92

  4. #4
    R/C Racer Cleatus's Avatar
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    I do what I can for my fans ;-)
    1992 Honda Civic CX
    2008 LVMS Battle of the Imports Sportsman ET Champ

  5. #5
    Go Kart Racer Otaku LLC's Avatar
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    jujitsu is a way of life!!

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